As a fragrance devotee, I journeyed to Esxence in Milan, the ultimate stage for niche perfumery, in search of scents that transcend the ordinary. Among hundreds of brands, I’ve handpicked seven houses whose creations spark curiosity, emotion, and desire. From the crisp, minimalist artistry of Miller et Bertaux to the vibrant, playful palettes of Perroy, and the evocative, memory-laden stories of Arcadia, each brand offers a world to explore in a bottle. For my readers in Monaco, these are not just perfumes, they are statements, experiences, and treasures that linger long after the first encounter.
1. ELECTIMUSS
London-based niche perfume house Electimuss, renowned for its opulent and daring fragrances, continues to captivate the olfactory senses with its latest creations. Their newest addition “Moroccan Medjool,” is a tribute to the rich, caramel sweetness of dates and the warm oases of Morocco, expanding their “Explorer Collection” with a fruity amber scent. In addition, Electimuss has unveiled “Cupid’s Kiss,” a unisex fragrance that masterfully blends soft suede with the elegant note of iris resinoid, capturing the intricate and multifaceted nature of love. These releases exemplify brand’s commitment to quality and creativity, offering fragrances that are both luxurious and evocative.
2. HOUSE OF HELIOS
An exciting Spanish perfume brand, House of Helios is making waves in the fragrance industry with its innovative approach to scent creation. Launched in 2023, the brand introduced the enneaKIND collection, a series of nine fragrances inspired by the enneagram — a personality typology system. Each scent is meticulously crafted to resonate with specific personality types, promoting emotional wellness and self-awareness. The debut fragrance 1 The Reformer embodies the spirit of innovation, blending citrusy bergamot with the woody depth of vetiver and a hint of black pepper, creating a bold and avant-garde scent. Other notable fragrances in the collection include 2 The Helper featuring chamomile and Damask rose, and 3 The Achiever which combines notes of jasmine, sambac and black pepper. Brand’s dedication to quality and innovation is evident in its collaboration with esteemed perfumers such as Ane Ayo, Coralie Spicher, and Frank Voelkl, ensuring each fragrance is a masterpiece that tells a unique story.
3. SORA DORA
A distinguished French niche perfume house SORA DORA, continues to captivate fragrance enthusiasts with its rich heritage and innovative creations. Established in 2021, the brand has swiftly gained acclaim for its diverse collections, each reflecting a unique olfactory journey. The Universelle Collection embodies the authenticity and passion of perfumery, featuring scents like Mandorle which artfully blends cocoa, heliotrope, and cashmere notes to create a warm, gourmand experience. The brand’s commitment to quality and artistry is further exemplified in its Irreelle Extrait collection, which includes fragrances like Jany and Mallow each crafted to evoke distinct emotions and stories. Sora Dora’s dedication to the art of perfumery ensures that each creation is a masterpiece, offering a sensory experience that transcends time and place.
4. PANA DORA
PANA DORA, a niche perfume house from Sweden known for its refined, artisanal creations, introduced a new fragrance, Onyx Black, at Esxence 2025. The fragrance offers a complex, unisex composition that balances depth and vibrancy, making it an intriguing addition to the brand’s portfolio. Onyx Black opens with a rich blend of saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon, lemon, and bergamot, creating a spicy, citrusy introduction. Its heart unfolds with notes of ambergris, olibanum, and cypriol oil, evoking a sense of warmth and resinous complexity. This latest launch underscores brand’s continued focus on creating luxurious, high-quality fragrances that are not only visually striking but also rich in complexity.
5. MILLER ET BERTAUX
Miller et Bertaux were among the 378 brands at Esxence, presenting their latest release, Limone Nero. Yet while new creations drew attention, Menta y Menta, their 2019 perfume, remains my favorite. Its fresh blend of mint, tea, citrus, coffee, and jasmine carries a poetic simplicity that still captivates me beyond the fair.
6. ARCADIA
Arcadia, the niche perfumery founded by Amna Al Habtoor in the UAE, fashions unisex fragrances rooted in memory and emotional resonance. Their flagship collection includes evocative scents like Vanilla Pod and Bête Noir. Their newest Travel Series release, Moscow, captures the elegance of Russia’s capital with top notes of wild strawberry, lychee, and pink pepper, a heart of rose, violet, and honey, and a gourmand-rich base featuring teak, vanilla bean, chocolate, and dried plum.
7. PERROY
Perroy is a vibrant French fragrance brand that debuted in 2024, offering eight unisex scents designed as a “mood palette,” each bottle a burst of optimism and personality crafted by perfumer Arnaud Poulain. Their latest creation, Mahoganysun, evokes radiant summer warmth with notes of fig, frangipani, and vanilla. Yet for me, Tangerinepearl remains a standout: its zesty pomelo, spicy ginger, and powdery iris, a lively citrus-infused cocktail, makes it an enduring favorite.
Attending Esxence was a true celebration of artistry and innovation in perfumery. The event offered an extraordinary chance to explore rare creations and uncover exciting new launches that redefined what luxury fragrance can be. Each encounter brought a sense of delight, from niche houses presenting bold olfactory statements to timeless brands unveiling modern interpretations of classics. Esxence reminded us that fragrance is more than an accessory — it is a form of expression, a bridge between tradition and creativity, and a constant invitation to discover something new.
by Olga Barrale