Paris Fashion Week is, by design, an exercise in spectacle: catwalk theatrics, front-row diplomacy, and the relentless cadence of heritage maisons asserting their relevance. Yet, amid this orchestrated grandeur, the most compelling discovery this season came not from the expected epicenters, but from Tranoï Paris. Removed from the performative excess, Tranoï operates with a different frequency: one that privileges dialogue over display, and substance over spectacle. Here, fashion recalibrates to its essential form—an exchange between creator and curator, designer and distributor, idea and execution.
Staged within the stately confines of Palais Brongniart, the Tranoï experience felt both intimate & intentional
Founded in 1991, Tranoï has long served as a critical interface between emerging talent and the global fashion ecosystem, convening buyers, media, and industry stakeholders in a setting that encourages genuine engagement. What distinguishes it is not merely its curation, but its clarity of purpose: to spotlight designers with a point of view. It is precisely this editorial sharpness that informed my decision to feature Tranoï this season—because in an industry saturated with visibility, it is increasingly rare to encounter a platform that still values discovery. Let’s talk highlights.
Uli Schneider (Germany)
There is a quiet authority to Uli Schneider’s work: one that doesn’t demand attention, yet inevitably earned it at Tranoï in Paris. Based in Hamburg, the label has spent decades refining a visual language rooted in precision, restraint, and material excellence. Clean lines and subtle transparency define silhouettes that feel both contemporary and enduring, while exclusive, often self-developed fabrics elevate each piece beyond the expected. What distinguishes Uli Schneider is its commitment to longevity over trend: garments designed not for seasons, but for lifetimes. It is fashion distilled to its purest form: confident, intellectual, and unmistakably individual in its understated signature.
LIE (South Korea)
LIE operates in the tension between opposites: masculine and feminine, structure and fluidity, boldness and restraint. Founded by siblings Chungchung and Nana Lee, the brand channels Savile Row tailoring discipline into womenswear that feels both architectural and emotionally charged. Precision-cut jackets meet soft draping were presented at Tranoï, while unexpected fabric pairings introduce movement into otherwise controlled forms. There is a cinematic quality to the collections, where color and silhouette interact with deliberate contrast. What makes LIE compelling is its duality: it doesn’t resolve contradictions, it elevates them, offering a wardrobe that feels modern, intelligent, and unapologetically complex.
Kiyokawa (Japan)
Kiyokawa embodies the quiet mastery of Japanese craftsmanship, where heritage and modernity exist in seamless dialogue. Originating from a post-war handbag workshop, the brand has evolved into a refined leather goods house under the direction of Yumi Matsumura. Each piece reflects a meticulous, fully domestic production process: from material sourcing to final construction, ensuring an uncompromising standard of quality. The aesthetic is deceptively simple: soft forms, nuanced color palettes, and clean structures that reveal their sophistication over time. What sets Kiyokawa apart is its human touch — bags conceived with specific women in mind, designed to accompany, not overshadow, everyday life.
Crystalline Jewellery (Monaco)
Crystalline Jewellery sits at the intersection of fashion and art, where ornament becomes statement. Founded by Elena Kosenkova and Kira Pokhiton, the brand channels an editorial sensibility into bold, sculptural pieces that resist convention. Drawing inspiration from nature and early 20th-century avant-garde movements, each design juxtaposes vivid natural materials with sharply defined, gilded geometric structures. Handcrafted in Italy, the pieces possess a tactile richness that feels both expressive and deliberate. What distinguishes Crystalline is its visual confidence: jewellery that does not merely complement an outfit, but defines it, asserting a strong, cultured aesthetic with every composition presented at Tranoï this year.
Vivyinrosa (Italy)
Another shining Tranoï discovery is Vivyinrosa. Italian brand that captures a distinctly Roman sensibility, where history, art, and modern design converge into something effortlessly elegant. Founded by Viviana Rosati, the brand approaches jewellery as miniature sculpture, crafting pieces that are both refined and expressive. Working with bronze and sterling silver, often plated in gold or rhodium, each creation reflects a careful balance between material integrity and aesthetic exploration. Seasonless by design, the collections reject the rhythm of fast fashion in favor of permanence. What sets Vivyinrosa apart is its subtle boldness: jewellery that enhances presence without overpowering it, offering a quiet yet unmistakable signature.
Maison Dressage (Italy)
Maison Dressage is less a brand than a philosophy — an exercise in slow creation where every element is considered, sourced, and shaped with intention. Founded by Matteo Dazzo and Rossella Mancini, the label merges disciplines, blending design, illustration, and craftsmanship into objects that feel both functional and narrative-driven. Materials are central: vegetable-tanned Tuscan leather, raw brass, sculpted woods, each transformed through time-intensive, traditional techniques. Inspired by maritime heritage, the pieces carry a tactile, almost architectural quality. What distinguishes Maison Dressage is its total control over process, resulting in creations that are deeply authentic, materially rich, and quietly radical.
NNT Lab (Colombia)
NNT Lab redefines perfumery through the lens of slowness, prioritizing intention, sustainability, and emotional depth over mass production. Rooted in Colombian craftsmanship, each fragrance is meticulously developed to evoke memory and atmosphere, transforming scent into a personal ritual. The brand’s commitment to ethical practices: vegan formulations, cruelty-free processes, and biodegradable packaging, extends beyond marketing into genuine philosophy. Yet it is the sensory experience that resonates most: compositions that feel grounded, nuanced, and alive. What sets NNT Lab apart is its balance between conscience and creativity, offering perfumes that are as thoughtful in their impact as they are in their expression
Sanya Zaheer (Turkey)
Sanya Zaheer approaches fragrance as narrative architecture: each scent constructed as a vessel for memory, identity, and emotional resonance. Drawing from a deeply personal geography spanning Pakistan, Cyprus, and Istanbul, the brand translates lived experience into olfactory compositions that feel intimate yet universal. Crafted in Grasse by perfumer Rosalie Moulet, the collection balances technical sophistication with poetic intent. What sets Sanya apart is its embrace of fluidity: of gender, of culture, of time, positioning perfume not as an accessory, but as an extension of self. Each bottle becomes less a product and more a sensory memoir, quietly unfolding on the skin.
I left Tranoï feeling something rare in today’s fashion landscape: genuinely refreshed. Energised not by spectacle, but by substance. Inspired by conversations, by craftsmanship, and by the quiet confidence of designers who are shaping the future on their own terms.
Until next year, Tranoï — thank you for the inspiration, and for the kind of discoveries that remind us why fashion still matters.
by Olga Barrale